Every European country has a major city that attracts the majority of tourists – think Rome, Paris, Amsterdam, etc. And too often, these popular tourist destinations are the only destinations for travelers.
While I don’t recommend skipping these places entirely, I prefer to complement them with a visit to the country’s “second cities” – in fact, if you have 4 days in any of these capitals, I would recommend cutting your visit down by a day to make time for these cities.
Europe's second largest cities may not have the biggest stars or bucket list attractions, but they tend to enjoy creativity, strong civic spirit, Rust Belt strength, fun eateries with cutting-edge menus, and fun street art. And with far fewer tourists, it could be said that you'll enjoy cheaper prices, a more authentic welcome, and a more authentic cultural experience.
In Portugal, tourists flock to Lisbon. But second-largest city Porto, a three-hour train ride north, is smaller, more manageable, and full of rough-stone architecture. EU funds are going to upgrade public transport and historic sites, and tourism here has grown big (thanks in large part to cheap flights into Porto's international airport); locals have seized the opportunity to build trendy eateries and boutiques on its characterful streets. And, a plus for wine lovers, this is the birthplace of port wine.
Scotland's capital, Edinburgh, draws visitors with its famous castle, Royal Mile and romantic streets, but just an hour by train, funky Glasgow delights with its laid-back vibe, hip street murals and some of Scotland's best food and live music. (Glasgowians like to say that “Glasgowers have more fun at funerals than Edinburgh people have at weddings.”)
In France, the great sights of Paris dominate most travellers' itineraries, but I've also had wonderful days in the livable culinary capital of Lyon and the bustling Mediterranean shipping hub of Marseille. The same can be said for London (naturally the UK's main draw) and the list of revitalised post-industrial cities that Anglophiles love to explore: Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool.
Brussels, the capital of Belgium and the European Union, is home to the spectacular Grand Place. But after strolling this exciting square, munching on pralines and seeing the Manneken Pis, you might just be killing time. Hop on the train to explore Antwerp, an equally historic and delightful design capital. Antwerp's sights rival Belgium's best, but you'll enjoy it just as much even if you don't have sightseeing planned. Come for the fun-to-explore neighborhoods, plenty of outdoor café tables, and the charming Main Market Square, where the carillon chimes the time.
No visit to Ireland should be complete without visiting Dublin, and a short train journey away from it all to Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, with its glittering architecture, buzzing commercial activity and important 20th-century Irish landmarks.
Berlin has world-class museums and Cold War history, but the German capital also attracts international visitors, while Hamburg has rebuilt its futuristic and glamorous port district and the majority of visitors are Germans who come to experience the city's legendary nightlife.
This works on a local level, too: if you're exploring the countryside west of London, the stately Georgian city of Bath is a big draw, naturally. But if you can make a detour, the redeveloped port city of Bristol is just a 20-minute train ride away, thriving with university students and street art (Banksy was born in Bristol, and his legendary street paintings still dot the city).
Looking more domestically, this approach also works in the US: I'm a proud Seattle native, but after exploring Pike Place Market, Pioneer Square and the Space Needle, I recommend a trip to Tacoma for its diverse food scene and Dale Chihuly's iconic works at the Museum of Glass.
I've been thinking about why I like European second cities. In most cases, there's a reason why these cities have struggled to rise to “major city” status. Often, it's because they were once industrial centers that fell on hard times. Or maybe they simply have a long history of always being content with second-tier status.
But everyone loves an underdog. And maybe that's why my fondest travel memories tend to come from these underrated and overlooked destinations. They may not have the fame or world-famous sights, but they more than make up for it with their tenacious spirit, lack of pretense, easy charm, and brimming creativity. Unfettered by the obligation to be a role model for their home countries, second cities offer the freedom to just be themselves. And that's why second cities are so great.
This article is used with permission from Rick Steves' Europe (www.ricksteves.com). Steves writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public television and radio, and organizes European tours.
