“I was chatting to a guest this morning,” Simon Drake recalls, “and my first line was, 'Weren't you supposed to be leaving two days ago?' And he laughed and said, 'Yeah, but kids just keep finding things to do.'”
And can you really blame them? It's a recurring problem for guests at The Store, a newly opened 101-room hotel in the heart of Oxford. After all, the city may seem quaint when you first arrive, but a recent visit revealed that what's most fascinating about this city, home to one of the world's most famous universities, is not what immediately meets the eye, but what reveals itself over time: the charming streets you pass by with ease, the gardens hidden behind unmarked doors, the history nestled next to the drug stores, bars and fashionable shops.
The store itself is a case in point. Since 1912, the building on the corner of Broad and Cornmarket Streets has been home to Boswells, a family-run Oxford staple (established in 1738). It started out selling luggage and eventually became a thriving department store. In 1890, it was sold to local business owner Arthur Pearson, whose descendants ran the store until it closed in 2020. “The Pearson family, who bought Boswells 130 years ago, had reached a stage where it no longer made sense financially,” says Drake, the store's general manager. “They decided to sell to someone who could take it forward. People always ask me what it's like to be the general manager of a store, and I'm not only the general manager, I'm also the steward and successor of Boswells in its next phase.”
Provided by: The Store
A room at The Store, a boutique hotel that opened this year on the site of the former Boswells department store in Oxford.
For those familiar with Boswells, or who have visited The Store and glanced at the shop's vintage photos lining the walls, the stage will look a little different. Upon entering the building, guests are greeted by a sleek lobby, with the reception desk tucked off to the side and a large lounge and bar (serving great coffee during the day) as the focal point of the space. Locals and guests alike are thronged here and there, some using the area as a co-working space, while others simply watch the world go by through the windows facing bustling Broad Street.
“Hospitality to me is about making people feel comfortable wherever they choose to be in the building,” Drake says. “In London, it's normal to sit in a hotel lobby for a few hours with your laptop and drink a latte. You can't do that in Oxford. Historic buildings don't have lounges. I realised there was a hole in the market here. Some people try to limit lobby patrons, but I'm fine with that: sit down, I'll bring you a coffee, make yourself comfortable.”
Provided by: The Store
Boswell's department store has been an Oxford landmark since 1738, and its last remaining building is now a smart and attractive new hotel, The Store.
And the vibe doesn't end at the lobby. The hotel has a charming restaurant, Treadwell, which serves three meals most days of the week (plus roast lunch on Sundays), serving what they call “non-traditional British” fare. Don't miss the fish and chips. There's also a rooftop terrace bar, with cocktails, American-style barbecue and views of the city skyline. There's also a spa, which uses products from local brand Oschia, and is a great place to spend an afternoon lazing around. The rooms are also havens, with smart design, modern touches and plenty of space to lounge. I stayed in a rooftop terrace suite (request one; sipping my morning coffee in its namesake outdoor space was a highlight of the trip), and was never disappointed when I popped in for lunch or a bite of the heavenly chocolates tucked away near the minibar.
But what goes on inside The Store is only part of the story. Just as the lobby makes students, locals and tourists feel at home, guests can easily step outside and get lost in the city's mix of university bustle and Gothic and Baroque (as well as Neoclassical and Romanesque) charm. In just a few minutes you can walk to the beautiful Ashmolean Museum, Britain's first public museum, and browse its incredible collection of art and antiques; stop in the historic covered market for a snack or souvenir; wander the historic streets to see the colleges, libraries and gardens the city is famous for (some are open to the public and worth asking about); and visit local landmarks like the Oxford Playhouse and Christ Church Cathedral, which has featured in many Harry Potter films, and enjoy the daily Vespers concerts. A little further away, but still worth visiting, are treasures like Blenheim Palace, Oxford Botanic Gardens and the city's diverse and exciting east end.
“Oxford punches above its weight for a city of its size.”
“Oxford punches above its weight for a city its size,” Drake says. Oxford has seen an increase in visitors from the US and Asian markets, but it has also become popular with tourists and Londoners for short breaks. “When tourists came across the Atlantic, they would go to London, they might go to Manchester, Glasgow, Edinburgh, but Oxford wouldn't have been a destination,” Drake explains. “Now, you can easily be at the gateway to the Cotswolds in 45 minutes, so Oxford seems to make more sense for the tourist. It's convenient for them to visit Oxford.”
Provided by: The Store
The store features a spacious lobby lounge that is open to guests and the public alike, where you can enjoy a coffee or drink and do some people watching.
Provided by: The Store
The rooftop lounge offers drinks, a full menu and stunning views of the Oxford skyline.
The store intends to do all it can to keep it that way. There are talks of local galleries displaying work on the walls and hosting fashion shows and holiday pop-ups. “This space needs to be available to the community, so anything we can do with local business partners is really important to us,” Drake says. “We just opened up outdoor seating, so we're adding 50 or 60 seats outside and bringing Parisian bistro-style dining to the city. The rooftop is an ongoing project, and the menu will change throughout the year. We love the idea of building an Alpine chalet on the roof at the end of the year. There's a lot of appeal to melted cheese.”
Drake notes that Oxford residents still pop in to see where they once shopped, and are amazed to see that what was once a pharmacy counter is now something entirely different, but he's confident that the building that once housed Boswell's has found a purpose that will remain a hub of activity in the city for years to come. “Every story you come across tells you what this building could have been,” he says. “And that's just the beginning.”
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Adam Reis is Town & Country's deputy features director, covering arts, culture and a variety of other topics.
